Tag Archives: Marcello Coronini


Described as “a wine of character,” the Ruché of winemaker Montalbera of Castagnole Monferrato (AT) is one of the pleasantest surprises encountered in “Gusto in Scena”, the food and wine festival held last March 17 to 19 at the Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista in Venice.

Montalbera 010



Produced in a territory that includes seven municipalities of Monferrato, Piemont territory famous for the quality of its wines, the Ruché – DOC and DOCG  is a wine of exceptional softness, with a particular aroma of rose and violet and a fruity taste reminiscent of the flavor of apricot. All unusual features in a red Piedmont, which led him to be loved especially by women.

The origin is obscure, the best hypothesis is that it comes from old vines by the Alta Savoia while the name thought come from “San Rocco”. A community of monks devoted to this saint, in fact, would probably have introduced the cultivation in the area. But the link with the religious of this variety does not stop there: forgotten for a number of years and at risk of extinction, has been rediscovered in the ’70s by the pastor of Castagnole Monferrato, Don Giacomo Cauda, ​​which he found ten rows between the properties of the parish and decided to enhance it. “She has a perfect body – as he described it – and a balance of aromas, flavors and scents. Tasted with moderation frees the spirit and opens the mind …”

The Ruché is a red grape, with medium-small leaf, three-lobed (rarely lobed), pale green and hairless. The



cluster has cylindrical shape – pyramidal, elongated and compact. The ripening period coincides with the end of September – beginning of October, greatly anticipating the ripening compared with other varieties typical of the area. Despite remarkable characteristics of adaptability, it prefers calcareous and argillaceous land, giving a bouquet of particular intensity and characterization.

The designation of origin includes the towns of Castagnole Monferrato, Grana, Montemagno,

Portacomaro Refrancore, Scurzolengo and Viarigi, all in the province of Asti. The regulations impose a 90% Ruché grapes, while the remaining 10% may also include Brachetto or Barbera grapes.

There are three interpretations of Ruché: La TradizioneLaccento e Limpronta each with specific characteristics, result of a long trial. Just one of them, Laccento was recently winner of the Prize for the Best Italian Red Wine  at eighth edition of the event SensofWine, held in Rome last January 2013.

Massimo Paccagnella


Great success for the fifth edition of Gusto in Scena, an event conceived and edited by the journalist Marcello Coronini, which has shown to have no limits.

gustoinscena1The success was due to the high number of visitors, around 3.400, 70% professionals, which have reached the Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista in Venice from 17 to 19 March. Waiting for “I Magnifici Vini”, a great tasting table with a selection of 71 Italian and international wines and two rooms devoted to the wines from vulcanic soil origin. In the Hall of Columns “Seduzioni di Gola” a selection of 30 manufacturers of culinary whims with rare and valuable products.

At Chef in Concerto, the Congress of haute cuisine, protagonists the big pastry like Gino Fabbri, Ernst Knam, Iginio Massari and chefs such as Andrea Aprea, Fabio Baldassarre, Gian Nicola Colucci with the Indian Chef Santosh Jori, Riccardo De Pra, Herbert Hintner , Nicola Portinari.

Next to them were up on stage nutritionist Evelina Flachi, known television personality and Shigemi Hikino Japanese colleague who further increased the level of interventions.

Over the past three years Gusto in Scena brought world-class chefs to offer, through studies of new dishes, tasty food and nice but health conscious, replacing through research and creative ingredients that generally abused in the kitchen. For 2013, Marcello Coronini has chosen the theme “Cooking dishes” salty “… Cooking with dessert without … Sugar “thus taking a further step in the study of a new kitchen.

Confectioners and chefs have felt very involved and have submitted reports of considerable thickness confronting each other after the speeches and launching an interesting comparison.

It was an incredible opportunity to see world-class chefs to test to make dessert without sugar. This has attracted many professionals and gourmets everywhere.

These three themes have focused on the need for a new Italian cuisine that reconciles the pleasure of eating with health. We gave the course, for a large project with a cuisine based on natural, on the quality, freshness of ingredients, – explains Marcello Coronini –essential elements for the natural taste of the raw materials by reducing the need to enhance the flavors with added useless.”

To the chefs were asked to replace sugar with natural alternative ingredients, equally tasty in quantities less than 50%. And the great names of Italian cooking that took part in the festival responded with originality and creativity in proposing alternatives rice syrup, agave juice, chopped dates, honey, dried pineapple and smoothie, coconut oil, isomalt, fructose , stelvia, fruit concentrates, and much more.

“ The objective of Gusto in Scena has been to build a new concept of dessert in function of conscious diet at the time when the dessert is eaten. – continues Mr Coronini – At breakfast, a cake with sugar can be positive because your body needs fuel immediately and quickly. On the contrary, the same dessert taken at the end of a dinner, gives considerable problems especially to digest it because the contents are added to the rest of the meal. Let us, therefore, make a distinction between the morning cake and the sweet dessert after a meal. “

The goal of Gusto in Scena was very ambitious: make Venice, for the days of the event, the world capital of gastronomy and it was really succesfull.



Gusto in scena” the annual meeting of italian taste performed in the splendid frame of the Venice Lagoon will be held from 17th to 19th march.


This year at the Scuola Grande di San Giovanni Evangelista in Venice, an architectural complex of incredible beauty founded in 1261, more than 20 internationally renowned chefs will attend the event. Thanks to the collaboration of the Fondazione Italia-Cina, the event will also examine strategies to open new paths to the Asian market and it will enhance the heroic viticulture.

Sugar will be a key issue of the 5th edition of Gusto in Scena. For the appointment of 2013, in fact, Marcello Coronini, journalist and critic of food and wine, launches a new original idea: “Cooking with … Cooking without … Sugar.” This will be really challenging for the big names of Italian cuisine attending the event.  The festival has further renewed its formula of three principal events in one and also side-happenings: the Congress of haute cuisine, Chefs in Concert, The Magnificent Wines, a big tasting with Italian and international wines, Gourmet Seductions, a series of culinary whims.

More information and updates on the official website: www.gustoinscena.it

Henry Borzi